Here are some basic fur coat construction instructions (what's your function?).
These directions are not thorough and in-depth but rather a basic overview and reminder in order to assist people who may not have completed their coats at the workshop. Instructions are provided for sewing the lining and coat separately, joining them together, and then several finishing techniques are discussed.
Pieces are numbered according to the following diagram:
Helpful hint: The back and front sleeve pieces can be distinguished by the shape of the top. The back sleeve piece (5) has a curved "U" shape while the front sleeve piece (3) has a downward sloped angle.
1. Sew lining sleeve backs (5) to lining back piece (4), pretty side to pretty side.
2. Sew lining left sleeve front (3) to lining left front (2), pretty side to pretty side .
3. Sew right lining sleeve front (3) to right lining front (2), pretty side to pretty side.
4. Sew left front lining sleeve to left back lining sleeve across top edge, pretty side to pretty side.
5. Sew right front lining sleeve to right back lining sleeve across top edge, pretty side to pretty side.
6. Match left front lining sleeve and front to left back lining sleeve and back across underarm edge and down the side pretty side to pretty side; sew.
7. Match right front lining sleeve and front to right back lining sleeve and back across underarm edge and down the side pretty side to pretty side; sew.
8. Sew curve of hood lining pieces (6) pretty side to pretty side.
9. Open up lining, pretty side up. Match long notched edge of hood to top edge of lining, pretty side to pretty side, starting by matching the hood seam to the center back and working down each side. Note: pointed ends of hood will extend past the end of the lining front. Sew.
10. Repeat steps 1-9 with coat fabric.
11. Match top hood seams of lining and coat, pretty side to pretty side. Pin edges, working from top of hood down to bottom of coat. Sew each edge starting from the top and working down to the hem.
12. Turn coart pretty side out:
Finishing the sleeves:
Note: The following sleeve directions are the standard sleeve finishing directions that come with the pattern. if these directions are too confusing or complicated to follow, I have offered a second, easier way of finishing the sleeve hems, which follows after the "official" instructions.
1. With the coat pretty sides out (as if to wear it), pin the ends (hems) of the sleeves, ugly sides together.
2. Reaching up through the bottom of the coat (into the inner ugly sides), pull the pinned sleeves out.
3. Repin the sleeves pretty side to pretty side; sew.
4. Pull the sleeves back out into regular coat-wearing position.
Easier sleeve finishing option:
1. With the coat pretty sides out (as if to wear it), turn the edge of the coat sleeve and the lining sleeve under approximately 1 inch. Each should be turned separately. The turned under inch of fabric should be "inside" the sleeve, between the coat and the lining. Pin.
2. With coordinating thread (top thread should match the coat and bobbin thread should match the lining), carefully sew around the sleeve edge, about 1/2 inch away from the fold.
3. Repeat for second sleeve.
To finish bottom hem:
1. Try on cat. Determine how long the coat should be.
2. Have a friend or random stranger off the street mark and/or cut the coat evenly about 1.5 below the desired finsihed length.
3. As with the second sleeve option (see above), turn both the lining and the coat under 1.5 inches. Each should be turned separately. The turned under inch of fabric should be "inside" the coat, between the coat and the lining. Pin.
4. With matching thread (color of the coat in the top thread and color of the lining in the bobbin), sew across the bottom hem of the coat, coat side up.
Wear and enjoy!
Questions? Clarifications? Need more photos or illustrations? Email Ivy at pivy@pivy.com.